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Словакия. Оценка: 4 |
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Екатерина |
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. Оценка: не дана |
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136 |
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2004-10-24 21:23:47 |
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Олимпийская Словакия в одиночку за семь дней с полезнейшими советами!
Глава 1. Куда податься бедному украинскому туристу?
Постановка задачи – неделя внезапно возникшего отпуска. Страна – любая безвизовая, ранее не посещаемая, Египет и Турцию не предлагать.
Поскольку я не была более чем в двустах странах мира, то найти страну для недельного отдыха казалось достаточно просто. Но не тут то было! Авиабилет в любую из них стоил больше предполагаемого бюджета поездки. Решено ехать поездом. Но, к сожалению, поездом далеко не уедешь. А среди соседей Украины безвизовых стран, увы, не осталось.
Но из не посещенных до сих пор соседей - осталась только одна страна – Словакия.
Что делать – приходится ехать туда.
Я не успела побывать в Словакии до введения виз – уж очень быстро словаки пошли на поводу у Запада и отгородились от нас визовым режимом. Цена визы на сегодня составляет 41$ (срочная – вдвое дороже). Как станет ясно из последующего повествования, эта цифра соизмерима со всей стоимостью поездки. Виза оформляется за семь дней, из документов необходима только фотография. В посольстве – никаких очередей. Возможно, зимой будет иначе. Чтобы закончить вопрос о визе, скажу, что в правилах въезда в Словакию написано, что необходима страховка на весь срок пребывания и 50$ на каждый день пребывания. Ни того, ни другого – никто от меня на границе не потребовал.
Глава 2. Как доехать до Словакии?
В Братиславу летают самолеты из киевского аэропорта Жуляны. Цена примерно 250$ за билет туда и обратно. Не приемлемо. Во-первых дорого, во-вторых - столица Словакии – ее самая дальняя точка. Существует поезд №7 – Киев-Братислава. Билет в «мягком» вагоне по стоимости соизмерим с билетом на самолет. До Кошице билет стоит около 300 гривен в один конец. Кто видел эти вагоны, тот меня поймет. В этих трехместных купе есть чудо техники (или если хотите – чудо природы) – средняя полка. Неужели это придумал инженер? Когда она поднята – все трое пассажиров обязаны сидеть, когда она разложена – все должны лежать. Естественно, что до Братиславы в таком купе доедут далеко не все – ехать две ночи и один день. В Кошице этот поезд прибывает вечером, когда уже стемнело. Идеальное время для поиска жилья и обмена денег. Из Ужгорода в Кошице ходит автобус, но этим летом все поезда решительно двигаются только до Чопа – в Ужгороде модернизируется вокзал (на момент написания статьи уже отмодернизирован).
И мной выбран самый дешевый и самый веселый вариант. В Киеве приобретается билет на поезд №16 Москва –Ужгород/Чоп/ до Чопа. В Чоп поезд прибывает в удобное для пассажиров время – в 2.47 ночи. Тем кто собрался в Словакию, а также в Венгрию – спать не обязательно. В 4.20 отходит шикарный одновагонный поезд в первый поселок на словацкой земле – Чиерна над Тисой (помните – было такое кино?). Билет в этот поезд стоит около двенадцати гривен. Далее – по Словакии можно ездить без проблем – поезда ходят часто.
Глава 3. Граница в надежных руках?
За полчаса до отхода поезда начинают пускать в транзитный зал, проверяются паспорта с визами, содержимое сумок. Надо отдать должное украинским таможенникам и пограничникам. Все это делается быстро, вежливо и не обидно. Основной контингент пассажиров – бабульки с сигаретами и всем тем, что в Словакии дороже. Турист здесь редкость. При подаче поезда становится ясно – одного вагона маловато. Если долго будете бежать к вагону – будете стоять в тамбуре. Две тетки дерутся ногами – одна заняла место другой. Слышна русская речь. Эта речь усиливается с появлением первой крови. Далее – повторная проверка паспортов украинскими пограничниками. Поезд трогается. Через десять минут останавливается. Мы уже на чужбине. Заходят словацкие пограничники. Изымают из вагона тех, у кого неправильно оформлены визы. Это женщины с детьми, у которых клерк посольства неправильно обработал анкету. Не там стоит закорючка насчет детей. Всегда проверяйте визы, вклеенные в Ваши паспорта! Все выходят из поезда. Налицо явная дискриминация – лиц со словацкими паспортами ведут в обход таможенного поста. Остальных – по двое – допускают к таможенникам. Какие галантные словаки! В бригаде таможенников имеется женщина, которая умелыми движениями прикасается к нашим женщинам. После ее движений часть нательного белья с пачками сигарет перекочевывает на таможенные столы. Для них (и сигарет и женщин) на этом поездка в Словакию заканчивается. Остальные выходят из здания таможни и оказываются на ночной привокзальной улице Чиерны над Тисой…
Глава 4. Где менять деньги?
В Словакии, как ни странно, украинские гривны не пользуются спросом. В Чиерне над Тисой никому не нужны также и доллары с евро. (Впрочем иногда местные представители нетитульной нации готовы поделиться с зазевавшейся бабулькой любой валютой, поэтому обычно от таможенного поста до вокзала все идут тесной группой – из под любого куста могут появиться местные Робин Гуды). ОТКРЫТОГО ОБМЕННИКА НА ВОКЗАЛЕ НЕТ!
Поэтому рекомендуется иметь хотя бы 126 словацких крон (далее SK) на билет до Кошице. Существуют киевские банки, где можно купить словацкую валюту. По всей Словакии обменников очень много. Но самый выгодный курс у менял в Чопе на вокзале (1$=33SK). Кроме того, у них почему-то отсутствуют фальшивые кроны. Любопытно, что в некоторых словацких обменниках можно торговаться. Обменники работают достаточно поздно, но везде по-разному. Банкоматы – круглосуточно.
Глава 5. Как пользоваться транспортом?
В стране существует одна главная железнодорожная линия Кошице - Братислава (через Спишска Нова Вес(СНВ), Попрад, Жилину и Тренчин). Поезда по ней ходят очень часто. Если Вам нужно ехать между населенными пунктами этой линии – выбирайте поезд. В остальных случаях удобнее автобус. Я ехала поездом Чиерна над Тисой – Кошице, Кошице – Спишска Нова Вес, СНВ – Попрад, иногда Попрад – Татранска Ломница, Спишске Подграде – СНВ, Трнава – Братислава, Братислава – Тренчин, Тренчин – Попрад, Попрад – Чиерна над Тисой. В остальных случаях – Кошице – Бардеев, СНВ-Левоча, Попрад – Зволен, Зволен – Баньска Штявница, Зволен – Нитра, Нитра – Трнава. Исключение из правил – Зволен – Баньска Быстрица ехала поездом в одну сторону, автобусом – в другую.
Поезда бывают – особни – пассажирские, рыхлики – скорые, экспрессы. Везде, в отличие от Румынии, второй класс вполне приемлем. Мне кажется, что поезда чище, чем в Польше и Венгрии. Но!!! Поезда могут опаздывать! Рыхлик «Даргов» в Чиерну опоздал на 55мин!, «Поважан» опоздал в Попрад на 20мин, Экспресс «Ваг» опоздал в Тренчин на 10мин, особни из СНВ в Попрад опоздал на 25мин. Что касается цены и расписания, то существует прекрасный сайт –(модератор – не убери!!) www.vlaky.sk. Цены и расписания почти всегда совпадали с действительностью. Особое внимание обратите на сноски – многие автобусы ходят не каждый день. Можно попасться! Так от Левочи до Спишского Подградья в субботу днем не ходит ничего! В другие дни – полно автобусов. Пришлось впервые в жизни воспользоваться автостопом.
Городским транспортом имеет смысл пользоваться лишь в Братиславе. Талоны продаются на многих остановках в табачных (газетных) киосках. Цена зависит от продолжительности поездки. За полчаса можно успеть доехать почти всюду.
Глава 6. Какой получился маршрут и/или Хороши ли словацкие гостиницы?
Для составления маршрута использовалась карта Словакии и неудачный (только на мой взгляд) путеводитель «Словакия» серии «Вокруг света». Следует отметить, что второе издание гораздо лучше первого. Достопримечательности описаны неплохо. Транспорт – плохо (выручил сайт – смотри главу 5). Гостиницы – плохо. Вообще говоря, не удалось найти достойного сайта, посвященного словацким гостиницам. Но в целом, сайты типа www.названиегорода.sk представление о городских гостиницах дают. Есть и другие сайты, один из которых предлагал купить в онлайне проживание в гостинице «Европа» в Кошице. Скажу, что такой гостиницы уже нет, и в этом здании находится банк. Мой маршрут понятен по предыдущей главе, но я еще раз перечислю населенные пункты. Места ночевок отмечены ЗАГЛАВНЫМИ БУКВАМИ.
Чиерна над Тисой – Кошице – Бардеев – КОШИЦЕ – снв – Левоча – Спишске Подградье – Спишске Влахи - СНВ – Попрад – Татранска Ломница – Старый Смоковец – Попрад – ЗВОЛЕН – Баньска Быстрица – Баньска Штявница – Зволен - НИТРА – Трнава – БРАТИСЛАВА – Тренчин – ПОПРАД – Татранска Ломница – Попрад – домой.
Краткий комментарий: Из Чиерны в Кошице поезд приходит слишком рано (около семи утра), поэтому сумка отправляется в камеру хранения (стоимость от 12 до 50 SK в разных городах) и я еду в Бардеев. Вернувшись в Кошице из-за отсутствия гостиницы Европа поселяюсь в ночлежке «Городской Парк» с идеальным расположением и низкой ценой. Поскольку в четырехместном номере жила одна, считаю ночевку удачной. Сумка отметилась в камерах хранения и других городов. Импортные туристы почему-то считают необходимостью таскать рюкзак (в 5 раз больше моей сумки) на спине. Видимо у них задача другая – согнать как можно больше килограмов веса. В СНВ - шикарный и дешевый пансион «Аркус», имеющий собственный сайт. Повторное посещение Татранской Ломницы связано с желанием оказаться «выше Украины всей». В ТЛ есть подъемник, который в два приема подвозит к второй по высоте вершине Словакии и всех Карпат – Ломницкому Штиту (2632м). И в первый мой приезд подъемник не работал – дул ветер, который внизу никак не ощущается. В Зволене есть хороший частный отель «Клуб», но в нем не оказалось мест. Пришлось жить в плохом отеле «Местский». Альтернативой могла служить комната на вокзале, но хотелось номер с телевизором – смотрите название рассказа. Если бы были места в «Клубе», можно в Зволене пробыть больше одного дня – интересны окрестности. В Нитре пансион «Атриум» идеален, причем о цене можно торговаться. Никаких претензий к братиславскому отелю «Адонис». Сами словаки считают, что этот отель находится страшно далеко. Но для меня, для киевлянки, двадцать минут на одном автобусе – сущая ерунда. Но зато много претензий к попрадскому отелю с гордым названием «Европа»: грязь, незакрывающиеся окна, отсутствие света в туалете, старая мебель – одним словом, Европа. Вообще в Словакии не везет отелям с этим названием. Как Вы помните, в Кошице здание у отеля (с 19 века!!) отобрал банк. Вообще в Попраде много хороших отелей – притом больших («Герлах», «Гарни»). Но шел август месяц. Организованные туристы из Германии, Австрии и Венгрии решили посетить Татры. И НИГДЕ НЕТ НИ ОДНОГО МЕСТА!!! Хорошо еще, что они в «Европу» не сунулись – пришлось бы уехать опять ночевать в СНВ.
Важное примечание: К карстовым пещерам национального парка «Словацкий рай» лучше ехать из СНВ, чем из Попрада. Что касается подъемников в Татрах, то они достаточно дорогие, значительно дороже румынских. Еще трюк. Я уже писала, что подъем на Ломницкий Штит проходит в два этапа. Первый этап – кабинки до Скальнате Плесо (озеро). Только там можно купить билет до вершины. Но! Прибыв к озеру, например, к 9 часам утра, Вы обнаруживаете очередь в кассу, подойдя к которой можно увидеть объявление, что билеты на вагончик до вершины продаются уже на 13:20. Делать же четыре часа возле озера нечего, хотя местность очень красива, и горным туристам вполне может подойти. Мне повезло – так как я была одна, мне нашлось место на 11:20. Дело в том, что в вагончик помещается 15 человек, а импортные туристы ходят парами или семьями с четным количеством детей. Когда пришло время подниматься, я посмотрела, что билеты уже продаются на 17:20 – последний рейс на вершину, а очередь в кассу стоит как в брежневские времена.
Глава 7. Где и на каком языке искать достопримечательности?
Достопримечательности описывать не буду, отошлю к вышеупомянутому путеводителю или другим, иностранноязычным изданиям. Скажу сразу, что на центральной площади всех городов находится информационный туристический центр, который поможет в изучении достопримечательностей и с проживанием. Но там не говорят по-русски. Оптимальный иностранный язык для путешествия по Словакии – ломаный польский, на котором я и говорила. МЕНЯ ПОНИМАЛИ ВСЕ!!! Некоторые пожилые люди с удовольствием вспоминали отдельные русские слова. Создалось впечатление, что молодежь не хочет учить никакой иностранный язык. Некоторые местные жители говорят по-венгерски, но этого языка, к сожалению, я не знаю. Что касается типичного словацкого города, то старая часть его выглядит так. Есть центральная достаточно длинная прямоугольная площадь (не квадратная, как в Польше), на которой обязательно присутствует ратуша с часами, один (чаще два или три костела), несколько старинных красивых зданий-дворцов, принадлежавших местной знати, приспособленных под гостиницы, музеи и, естественно, потребности местной администрации, а также фонтаны и памятники, чумные колонны и т.п. Мне было приятно, что памятники советским воинам-освободителям не осквернены и находятся в ухоженном состоянии. Новостройки, как и везде, интереса не представляют.
В Братиславе старая часть больше, в других городах – меньше. Старую часть дополняют замки – Братиславский Град, Тренчинский, Зволенский, Нитринский и т.д.
Глава 8. Кушать подано?
Умереть с голоду в Словакии у Вас не получится. Недорогие рестораны – до 100SK – комплексный обед, чаще еще дешевле. Если нет комплексного обеда, то столько же стоит второе блюдо. Порции большие. Национальные блюда съедобные. Если не хочется идти в ресторан – хочется вечером посмотреть олимпиаду в номере – можно купить продукты в магазине. Дороже чем в Киеве – только сигареты и крепкие спиртные напитки. Пиво дешевое и не вкусное, чешское и наше лучше (на мой вкус). Я предпочитала сладкую воду «Кофола» - хорошо утоляет жажду.
Глава 9. Пора домой?
За семь дней удалось посмотреть 14 городов, посмотреть горы и пещеры. Столь высокая скорость передвижения не для всех будет приемлемой. Нет необходимости смотреть их все. Чтобы не уезжать далеко от границы, можно ограничиться Кошице, Бардеевом, СНВ, Левочей, Спишским Подградьем. Можно не забираться на столь высокую гору в Татрах – все равно там всегда туман (облака) и ничего не видно. Словаки рассказали (правда это не очень прилично) – дословно – нужно много кушать в детстве фекалий, чтобы повезло, и с вершины было видно и Польшу, и соседние вершины. Мне удалось лишь сфотографировать туман и позвонить в Киев – телефон-автомат на вершине присутствовал. Там же есть почтовый штемпель – 2632 м. Можно было посетить знаменитые словацкие курорты – Бардеевске Купеле и Тренчанске Теплице. Но я не люблю такие места.
Несмотря на опоздание поезда в Чиерну, я успеваю на одновагонный состав в Чоп. Потратив последние кроны на ужин на словацком вокзале, можно ехать домой. В этот раз вагон пуст. Таможенный и пограничный контроль в поезде. По прибытии в Чоп у вагона стоит наш таможенник и тех, у кого несколько сумок – ведет на дополнительный досмотр.
Обратного билета у меня нет, и через несколько часов ожиданий удается приобрести билет до Киева в «мягкий» будапештский вагон того же поезда №15, в котором я ехала из Киева. Этот билет оказался дешевле билета в плацкартный вагон из Киева. В двухместном купе ехала одна и прекрасно выспалась, отдохнув от словацкого отпуска.
Глава Заключительная?
Захочу ли я еще раз поехать в Словакию? Думаю, что нет. В мире существует множество стран, где еще не ступала моя нога. А Вам скажу, что Словакия пригодна для туризма. Особенно тем, кто любит лыжи, горы, пещеры, замки, костелы. Страна относительно недорогая и относительно безопасна. Народ приветлив и доброжелателен. Вспоминаю подвозившего меня словака из Левочи. Он сделал крюк, чтобы подвести к самому входу в Спишску Капитулу. Естественно, совершенно бесплатно. Вспоминаю девушку из гостиницы «Сател» в Попраде. Она полчаса искала для меня свободный номер во всех гостиницах города. Вспоминаю работницу туристического информационного центра в Братиславе, составившую для меня оптимальное расписание так, что я успела по дороге в Попрад посмотреть еще и Тренчин. И еще. Не нужно ехать в Словакию с помощью турфирм. Не дарите им свои кровные. Я встречала в Спишском Граде пару из Ровно. Турфирма поселила их в Михаловце (недалеко от украинской границы) по 40$ за ночь. Я даже в Братиславе устроилась за меньшие деньги. От этого Михаловце им приходилось ездить на машине на дорогом словацком бензине. Естественно, что дальше Спишского Поградья они не добрались. Правда, ребята сочли мой отдых несколько экстремальным. Но тем не менее мне мой отпуск понравился. Понравилось, как словацкое телевидение показывает олимпиаду. И Вам всем желаю удачного отдыха. Как в Словакии, так и в других странах.
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There continues to be a pattern in today's world exactly where men and women have started searching for the top diet and weight loss plans, not just to look great but also to begin living a healthier life. Many people today are becoming more health-conscious. Many are getting more familiar with dietary supplements and best diets to lose weight fast. People also look for the best gym facilities and instructors, requesting assistance to design and monitor a practical diet plan suitable for their body with efficient diet and weight loss programs.
What are the issues to consider when acquiring into these applications?
Of course, you cannot just basically bite into any weight loss applications. You have to also consider your physique type and the figure you want to obtain. Given that every single body is distinct and each person has his or her own health objectives, you could must have a diverse system. Your diet plan and work out system may vary from other individuals. You can't just basically borrow a person else's program.
How to monitor diet and weight loss programs?
Appropriate workout vs. power workouts
Which do you believe works out your physique greater - lifting an excess weight of 70 or eighty pounds many times or lifting 20-30 pounds about forty to 50 times in three minutes? Most people feel that lifting heavier is better. This really is not usually the case. You'll need suitable exercise to attain the very best outcomes. You can not just overdo factors to obtain quicker and better outcomes . Lifting lighter in weight weights in suitable type helps your muscle tissue develop accordingly. This is simply because your muscle tissues can burn up more fats and tune out your physique appropriately with repetitive workout routines.
Eat healthy and do not skip your meals
It's usually a misconception when folks listen to the term "diet." They often think they have to minimize their food usage to shed excess weight. You are that which you consume. Suitable diet plan implies deciding on the proper meals to eat. Your physique needs to obtain the right quantity of nutrients and sustenance to it wholesome and energetic. This is why you additionally require to consume in the proper time. In case you skip meals altogether, how can you carry out the correct workout and workouts? There's a massive distinction in between acquiring attractive or muscular and getting ill and anorexic.
Choosing the best diets to lose weight fast and proper exercise
An efficient weight reduction plan will combine correct diet and exercise to suit your body's create. There are several elements that arrive into play like individual height and bodyweight ratio and your wellness standing. You cannot just merely trim your physique with appropriate diet plan. Additionally you need to have to combine it with correct exercise.
Getting tired and out of breath in the course of work out
What most people overlook about working out is the fact that they are aiming to burn out a lot more calories. This generally demands a regular metabolic process rate. To attain this, it calls for a strong cardiopulmonary workout that works out your coronary heart and lungs till you will be breathing greatly. This extensive exercise helps burn up more fats and energy, releasing far more HGH (human growth hormones) that assists turn these harmful fats and h2o fat into finely tuned muscle tissues. |
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| Автор: |
Юля |
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Дата: |
2005-05-06 13:56:34 |
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| Очень понравился Ваш отзыв, особенно его структура. Грамотно и талантливо написано. Если когда-нибудь соберусь в Словакию обязательно воспоьзуюсь, лучшей консультации дмаю не найти |
| Автор: |
Аля |
|
Дата: |
2004-12-16 11:23:48 |
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Вы молодец!
Спасибо.
Не только сама решилась на поездку, но и рассказала, как обойти трудности другим.
Я тоже из Киева. Вы часто ездите в такие поездки?
Может поделитесь опытом, где Вы еще бывали?
Мне хочется съездить не с турфирмой, а "дикарем", но одной как-то не по-себе. Может пообщаемся и найдем друг в друге единомышленника?
Аля |
| Автор: |
Сергей |
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Дата: |
2005-03-22 12:19:38 |
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Катя,
Рассказ супер. Очень полезно. Сколько по деньгам вышел недельный отдых?
Сергей |
| Автор: |
Сергей |
|
Дата: |
2005-03-22 13:11:15 |
|
Катя,
Рассказ супер. Очень полезно. Сколько по деньгам вышел недельный отдых?
Сергей |
| Автор: |
Илья |
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Дата: |
2005-01-08 18:08:15 |
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Уважаемая Екатерина. Я рад, что наш путеводитель (Вокруг Света) был вам хоть чем-то полезен. Вы абсолютно правы в том, что транспортная составляющая книги может быть сделена значительно лучше. Если Вы готовы предоставить корректную информацию, свои путевые впечатления, замечания и предложения, то мы со своей стороны готовы разместить информацию в следующем издании путеводителя. В любом случае спасибо Вам за отзыв. Если вы пришлете письмо на мой адрес в издательство, то я готов передать Вам контакт с автором путеводителя.
С уважением, Илья Кусый. |
| Автор: |
Мелисса |
|
Дата: |
2005-10-17 19:35:57 |
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| Спасибо за содержательный, интресный и отлично написаный отзыв! |
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| Listen to the north face is to say Vina will understand they had the north face is the people's treasure dug dong north face denali jacket but like to see the north face of heaven seems to have settled after all |
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| Автор: |
Ваня |
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Дата: |
2007-05-20 09:55:11 |
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| Супер рассказ - и все правда. Катенька, приезжайте к нам, Братиславу посмотреть, о ней Вы мало написали. А я так красиво писать не умею :-) |
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Hobbie, a Rebel veteran of many battles, looked at the princess with concern."Two fighters against a Star Destroyer?"
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Coach outlet
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Somewhat reassured, Hobbie and the other pilots raced toward their fightercockpits.
Meanwhile, Han was working frantically to complete welding a lifter on theMillennium Falcon. Finishing quickly, he hopped to the hangar floor and switchedon his comlink. "All right, Chewie," he said to the hairy figure seated at theFalcon's controls, "give it a try."
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| Автор: |
wz |
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Дата: |
2011-10-18 10:16:56 |
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2011-10-18 10:17:28 |
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fsa |
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Дата: |
2011-10-19 05:19:31 |
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2011-10-31 09:27:01 |
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cena |
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2011-11-18 09:02:43 |
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